Hi! I’m Elizabeth. Let’s go explore the world.
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Alaskan Cruise
April 29-May 6, 2023
One highlight to working in Seattle was the ease of taking an Alaskan Cruise. The cruise terminal is in downtown Seattle, so it felt almost sacrilegious to not partake in a cruise. Cruising is not my normal travel style, but I have fond memories of a Caribbean cruise as a child. While I was still on orientation at the hospital, I convinced one of the other travel nurses to book a cruise with me at the end of our contract. It would be early in the season which meant cheaper fares but also the risk of poor weather. I decided I could handle some rain, wind or even snow so we booked it! Such a great decision.
We had an absolute blast. I loved strolling on the deck and looking for whales. The safari mode in me activated and I enjoyed spotting animals. I wore my binoculars everywhere, even to dinner!
Our first stop was Juneau, Alaska. After the obligatory visit to the capitol building (not impressive) we visited Mendenhall glacier and went whale watching. It was damp and dreary which fit my expectations perfectly. I enjoyed hiking to the glacier and seeing icebergs in the lake. Whale watching was still fun but not very successful. I’d seen tons of whales and orcas from the cruise ship, and we only saw one tail while “whale watching.” Nevertheless, we kept amused by taking pictures of us freezing in the rain.
Next stop was Skagway. Skagway is a small town where most people take a train to Yukon, Canada. I went hiking since there were great trails within walking distance from the cruise port. I only saw a few other hikers, which was a needed escape after a busy cruise ship. On my way back to the ship we saw an orca right next to the bow. Incredible!
The weather turned as we arrived in Ketchikan. Sunny skies and warm weather seemed out of place. I hiked in just a long sleeved shirt and pants. It was a great day filled with easy hiking from the cruise port, countless eagles, indigenous culture, and a charming historical town.
Just when I thought Alaska couldn’t get better we woke up in Glacier Bay National Park. The sun was shining, seals played in the water, eagles rested on icebergs, mountain goats clung to the rocks, and the glaciers reached for the sea. The sun made the glaciers glow and the blue color pop. We spent the whole day enjoying the area with National Park Rangers explaining what we were seeing and why it was important. They talked not just about nature but also about the indigenous people who lived here. I had been reading John Muir’s Alaska which describes the glaciers in the bay and it made the experience extra special. I would go on an Alaskan cruise just for this experience.
The final port of call was Victoria, BC. We spent an evening admiring the flowers and old buildings. I would have liked more time but strolling the streets on a Friday night is a memory I will cherish.
I had such a great time on this cruise and the ports were only part of it. The cruise itself was so nice. I loved not having to pack and unpack multiple times. My room was my room for the whole week. The dining options were delicious. I preferred the sit-down restaurants and only ate at the buffet twice. There were so many options that were included. I ate well and often. We also enjoyed the ship’s entertainment. From live music to dancing to Broadway musicals – there were tons of events happening. My favorite show was Six: The Musical which is about Henry IV’s wives. Super catchy and we got to meet the cast on our whale watching excursion in Juneau.
I would absolutely go on another cruise. It’s not my typical backpacker style, but every now and then the ease of a cruise makes for a great holiday.
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Winter in Seattle, WA
January-April, 2023.
I’ve been working as a travel nurse for a few years now. As a travel nurse, I work at hospitals that need help for a short period of time. Most contracts are 13 weeks long. Seattle Children’s had been on my list of hospitals to work at for awhile, so when they had a well-paying job listing, I jumped on it. Plus, as it is a large hospital, they split PICU into general Pediatric Intensive Care (PICU) and Cardiac Intensive Care (CICU). CICU is my preference.
Work went well, and I enjoyed exploring Seattle and its surroundings. The winter was much milder than I remember growing up in Portland, Oregon. I loved being on the water. I also managed a few short weekend trips. First to the “German” village of Leavenworth to enjoy the Christmas lights and take a few snowshoe hikes. Then, to the Olympic Peninsula where I got to visit with my cousin, hike, and experience the many unique biomes there.
Of course, just as the weather got even nicer, it was time for me to leave. The hospital cut the travel nurse pay so even though I was enjoying myself it was time to move on. Next stop: Montana!
Thank you to my lovely family for hosting me while I was in Seattle! I was only there for 3 months but I felt like I embraced the PNW lifestyle. See you again someday!
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Cross Country Road Trip: Travel Nurse Seattle
Ohio to Washington State Road Trip Welcome back to the USA. The shock of complete freedom to normal life is always a harsh transition for me. Thankfully, I had the winter holidays and time with family to soften the impact. I applied and interviewed for travel nurse positions while in Thailand, so I already had a job lined up. However, each new travel nurse contract requires health evaluations, drug screens, online modules, licenses, vaccinations, and more. Usually, it’s an annoying week or two of appointments and paperwork. Nothing says “welcome back to the working world” like sitting in an urgent care clinic waiting to pee in a cup.
My job in Seattle was set to start the 1st full week of January, so it was a rush to complete the compliance requirements and then drive my car from Ohio to Seattle. I had a few nice days with family in Ohio and came across this poster of my grandfather’s travels. He and my grandmother traveled all over the world during his retirement. I’d seen this poster a while ago but now when I look at it, I recognize places! I’ve been to over half of the places listed. Thanks, Grandpa, for giving me the travel bug!
Poster of my Grandfather’s World Travels The drive west was pretty uneventful. Thankfully, I was a few days behind the storms, so the roads were cleared even over the mountain passes. My lovely mother joined for part of it, and I enjoyed getting to catch up with her. Driving across the USA is easy. The interstates are well maintained, gas stations and toilet stops are frequent, and the landscape changes dramatically. I try to stop at local cafes and restaurants but enjoying having the option of Starbucks.
My travel nurse contract got pushed back one week so I squeezed in a few nights at the Oregon Coast enjoying my last days of freedom. Nightshift nursing in Seattle’s Pediatric Cardiac ICU was waiting.
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Final Adventures in Japan
December 15-21, 2022.
The count down was on. My 4 month round the world trip was almost done. One week until I fly back to the USA. I could have traveled longer but the practical side of me said I needed return to work and make money.
I have become a very indulgent traveler. I know what I like and I do it. So I ate delicious Japanese food, explored small towns, stayed in traditional ryokan hostels, went hiking, and visited as many onsens (hot springs) as possible.
Japan is a lovely country and the people are some of the nicest people in the world. Everywhere I went, the people were welcoming and excited to show me their country. On my final day, I explored Tokyo and took part in a workshop at a cultural center.
Somehow it time to head to the airport and fly back to the USA to spend Christmas with my family. Just like the start of my trip I went to the airport as a backpacker but flew business class booked with airline points! JAL does not have the same over the top treatment as Qatar but was still lovely. My 10 hour flight went way too quickly.
I feel such nostalgia that this trip is over. I’ve had such amazing adventures and experiences. 19 countries, 3 continents, 120 days. I had been dreaming about it all throughout COVID times. And now it was finished. Looking at myself in these pictures I think the joy I experience while traveling is evident. Something about just wandering the globe makes me so happy. Until the next big trip!
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Hokkaido, Japan
December 10-15, 2022.
Welcome to Japan! I was so happy to be back in the country. I had an evening flight from Korea, overnight layover in Tokyo, then an early morning flight up to Hokkaido, the northern island of Japan. I tried to stay in one of the airport capsule hotels but they didn’t have rooms available. So instead, I flew business class and then slept on a bench in the Tokyo airport. The flight was lovely and the airport wasn’t that uncomfortable. I managed to sleep a few hours.
After a short flight I arrived in beautiful, snowy Sapporo. Sapporo is a lovely city. I got the bus to my hostel, left my bag, wandered around, accidentally tried fish sperm sushi, toured the Sapporo brewery, and indulged in delicious bowls of ramen.
I took a day trip to the small town of Otaru. It was a picturesque seaside village with tons of snow, canals, special soft serve ice cream, sake breweries and bathhouses. Delicious and relaxing. My perfect location!
I finished my time in Hokkaido in the ski village of Niseko. Niseko is known for having some of the best powder snow in the world. I’m not that big of a skier, but I really wanted to experience it. So up to the mountain we went.
Even in December the snow was incredible. It snowed every day I was there. I skied and relaxed in outdoor onsens (traditional hot springs). I even got to stay in a cozy ski lodge/hostel where the host mother made dinner for everyone each time. It was homey and comfortable. I could have easily spent a week just enjoying life there. Sadly, my trip was coming to an end, so I had to fly back to Tokyo, Japan.
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Seoul
Dec 6-9, 2022
Pretending to be a princess in Seoul Elizabeth, you visited Seoul last time and did not love it. Why return? I wanted to give South Korea another chance. So many people love Korean food and culture that I knew I must have missed something. Plus, a goal of this trip was to maximize airline points. It cost the same amount to fly from Japan to the USA as it did to fly from South Korea to Japan to the USA.
I decided to plan this visit completely around my likes. Spa days, dress up, food tasting, museums, and tea houses. Plus I would stay in the historical center instead of the modern area I stayed in previously.
Amazingly, I had a great time doing things I enjoy. Who would have known? 🙂 I arrived early in the morning to snow and cold temperatures. Perfect day for a Korean bathhouse! I tried to visit the one I went to previously which I’d loved but it had shut down during COVID. Lots of them had closed due to the multiple lockdowns. I was tired and couldn’t check into my guesthouse yet. I found a warm coffee shop, connected to the Wi-Fi and tried to come up with plan B. Plan B was a small and very local bathhouse. I was the only tourist. Thankfully, the “aunties” took my hand and pulled me to where I needed to go. I got scrubbed and massaged, soaked in different pools, and then lounged in multiple unique saunas. Perfect way to recover after an overnight flight and to enjoy a snowy day.
I checked into my guesthouse after the sauna. The neighborhood was charming and very historic. I went to a traditional Korean restaurant for dinner. Sadly, I still don’t like most Korean food. I keep trying but the flavors just don’t work for me. Still, I gave it a good shot and ate dumplings, cold pickled radish soup, and lots of other pickled sides. I find it so interesting that Korean chopsticks are metal instead of wood or plastic. Way harder for me to eat with. I felt like a chopstick novice!
The next day I got to dress up like a princess and visit the grand palace. I’m so glad I did this. I felt gorgeous and like I fit in. One stranger gave me his hand warmers after complimenting my dress and thanking me for exploring Korean culture.
In the evening I left the historic center and went to the university district. Here I did a Sogu tasting. Similar to sake, it is a rice alcohol. I’d never tried it, but I had a lovely time. The host guided us through multiple varieties and paired it with madeleines made from byproducts of the alcohol.
The last day I visited the war museum and the Korean history museum. I barely remember learning about the Korean War in school, so the war museum was fascinating. It was great to see a more positive American light vs the war in Vietnam. It’s amazing how far and how quickly Seoul has advanced since the war ended.
Thank you, Seoul, for welcoming me back. I learned a lot and really appreciate that I had the chance to visit again. Now I need to explore the rest of the country!
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Traveling North in Vietnam
November 30-December 5, 2022. How had time passed so quickly? I blinked and now had only 3 weeks before my flight back to the USA. I am not ready to return to normal life. Travel has a way of making me live in the moment and savor every day.
With only 3 weeks left, I made some sacrifices. I would have loved to slowly travel north in Vietnam, but I also wanted to reach Japan before my trip was up. Instead of the train, I took flights. And instead of multiple stops, I picked only Hoi An and Hanoi: Hoi An because it’s a UNESCO heritage site and full of beautiful buildings, and Hanoi because it is one of my favorite cities in the world.
Hoi An Hoi An was lovely. It’s a small and charming touristic town, near the coast midway between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. There were so many Westerners. It was shocking to see so much blond hair.
All boats have eyes to scare away sea monsters Hoi An has Japanese, French and Chinese influences due to past conquests. I enjoyed exploring the small streets and temples. A river and a few canals cut through the town. The boats on the river have eyes painted on the front. I was told this way if a sea monster looks up, it will see the eyes and assume the boat is a large predator, and then won’t attack.
Cau Lao I tried the local delicacy, Cau Lao, which was delicious. The noodles were thick and chewy and coated in a very flavorful sauce. Fried dough croutons, sliced pork, lime, and lots of leafy greens complement the dish. I paired it with a fresh lime soda, delicious! Why is Vietnamese food so good?
Hoi An is know for tailoring services. Many tourists get suits or formal dresses made. I had considered ordering a dress but I just was not in the mood. Instead, I bought a few Christmas cards and addressed them while drinking a coconut and mung bean shake. As I returned to my hotel ($20/night for a modern, clean hotel room with free breakfast!), I spotted a gorgeous silk robe. Did I need it? No. I bought one the last time I was in Vietnam which is still in good condition. But I loved the pattern and $15 for the robe and nightgown set was so much cheaper than it would be back home.
Two nights in Hoi An was plenty of time to get a feel for the town. I was excited to catch the shared shuttle bus to the Da Nang airport and fly north to Hanoi.
I flew Vietjet all over Vietnam and Thailand. I am impressed with the quality of service in regards to the price. It’s a low cost airline but it doesn’t feel like Spirit or RyanAir. My tickets were $33.90 for a window seat in the front, checked bag, and carry-on. Great price and only 1.5 hrs but much higher carbon emissions than taking the train.
It felt great to be back in Hanoi. I booked an Airbnb to let myself embrace the domestic side for a little bit. I wanted to make my own breakfast, do my own laundry, and organize my life. Hanoi is a hard city to explain. It mixes old and new. It’s chaotic yet orderly, charming yet ugly.
Highlights were attending a food tour with two men from Singapore, visiting the silk village and seeing the factories, and learning about history at the Hoa Lo prison.
The first day in Hanoi I went on a food tour. Street food is extremely popular but it can be a little overwhelming if you don’t know which shops are worth visiting. The tour led me and two other guests around the old quarter. We tried so much food. My favorites were the egg coffee and different rice paper rolls.
Since the holidays were coming up, I bought gifts and souvenirs while in Hanoi. Silk is famous so I visited the village Van Phuc to see artisan workshops and purchase a few pieces. The loom machines were so loud. Little shops were attached to each factory. It was a unique experience and well worth the 40 minute motorbike taxi ride.
My final day in Hanoi I visited Hoa Lo prison. Also known as Maison Centrale or Hanoi Hilton. It was first built to hold political prisoners during the French rule. American prisoners of war were kept there during the Vietnam War (or American War, if you live in Vietnam). It was fascinating. I had visited the prison where Nelson Mandela was held in South Africa and was imagining something similar. However, this felt worse. It was opened in 1896 by the French to suppress the Vietnamese fighting the colonists for independence. It was so brutal and overcrowded. The prisoners were fettered by the ankles most of the time. Some of the cells had slanted cement floors where their legs would be higher than their head. This forced the prisoners to use their arms to elevate their head to keep blood flow even. These prisoners got terrible edema and suffered great illnesses. It was such a cruel place. The children of female prisoners would stay with their mothers. However, they didn’t get any extra supplies for the children. No clothes or milk. Many died while incarcerated. Executions occurred by guillotine as an intimidation tactic. Why were colonial powers so cruel?
American POWs were held there between 1964-1973. According to the museum, the prisoners were treated well. The Vietnamese spent twice as much to provide for the American soldiers as it did for its own soldiers. They were provided medical care, time for exercise and went on tourist outings. However, other sources said the treatment was horrific and so brutal it breached the Geneva Convention. Senator John McCain was one of the prisoners.
While in Hanoi, I went to mass in the lovely St Joseph Cathedral. I also ate so much food. Banh mi 25, a well-known restaurant, is touristy but so delicious. They get a bit creative with the sandwiches, so I got mushroom, avocado and egg. An avocado smoothie might sound weird, but it has such a nice creamy mild flavor.
St Joseph Carhedral 
Amazing banh mi and avocado smoothie. Famous pho shop in alleyway Before heading to the airport, I indulged in once last bowl of pho. Apparently, Barack Obama visited this shop when he was in Hanoi as president. They only serve beef pho and you must watch for motorbikes as you eat but it’s tasty and fresh.
4 days in Hanoi passed quickly and enjoyably. I’m not sure what it is about the city but I just love it. Next visit I’ll explore the Hai Giang loop in the far north. Vietnam is another country where I definitely plan to return to someday. Thank you to everyone I met who ensured I had a great time and didn’t give me a hard time for being American.
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Mekong Delta Homestay
November 28-29, 2022. It was time to dive into local culture. I had been mostly relaxing since finishing my tour in Nepal. Eating, hanging out at the beach and getting massages make for a wonderful vacation, but now I felt the urge to learn more about the region. Cue Intrepid Mekong Delta Homestay tour.
I know, how many Intrepid tours can a person do? Intrepid offers many very interesting tours in Vietnam, but the dates did not line up for me. I decided to go completely solo but spend two days on their homestay tour. Like many tourist sites, the Mekong Delta has been partially commercialized. Some tours just take you to shops and encourage you to buy. I wanted to experience what it was like to actually live in this enormous delta, and I trusted Intrepid to guide me. They exceeded my expectations by a long shot.
The tour started in Ho Chi Minh City. Intrepid combined both a day trip and homestay tour into one van to reduce the environmental impact. There was only one other person on my tour. He was a study abroad student from Australia. Surprisingly, we got along wonderfully and had in depth conversations throughout the trip. Thank you Rupert for being friendly!
Sailing along the muddy waters The first part of the tour involved visiting a few of the islands. We sampled fresh fruit from family-run orchards and honey tea from a honey and flower farm. Next was a coconut candy factory where I indulged in a coconut ice cream to help cool off. The coconut candy factory was the only place we ran into a tour group. There were over 20 people all rushing to buy as many souvenirs as possible. So glad I got to see more than just that!
Lunch followed and was the first of many feasts. We had local fish, rice paper rolls, delicious papaya and mango salads, soups, rice dishes, grilled meats and so much more. Too much food but everything was delicious and locally grown.
So much delicious food! The homestay was hosted by a married couple. Mai, the host mother, didn’t speak English, yet was still so welcoming. She cooked and showed us which foods came from her garden. Her husband worked during the day. When he returned from work we chatted about everything from life on the delta to covid to Chinese investment to environmental concerns to the World Cup. Vietnam is the final country before the Mekong River empties into the ocean. It places the people who live in the Mekong Delta at the mercy of those upstream. Other countries upstream have dams. Flooding is common especially when the other countries release more water without notice. Pollution also is a problem. We saw lots of trash floating down river. There are many factories that pollute directly into the water. The host father complained about the Chinese coconut factory directly across from his house..and how it releases untreated food waste products into the river, reducing water quality.
They had two rooms set up for us. It was comfortable with a mosquito net and fan. The delta was horribly humid and hot so the fan was a life saver. We went to bed early and woke around 5am to the roosters crowing, birds chirping, and motorboats on the river.
Homestay After a breakfast feast, we set out to explore the surrounding area by bike. Paths weave through farms and waterways. Tons of little bridges connect the delta. Depending on the tide, there are streams or ditches. Motorbikes, bicycles, and pedestrians shared the paths. At one point, I must have swerved quickly to avoid a motorbike, causing me to crash into the bushes, and barely managed to grab a tree limb to avoid falling into the muddy waters.
Our destination was the morning market to see how local people buy and sell goods. Some markets have been sanitized for tourists but this one was as authentic as they come.
Local market. Can you spot all of the flies? Fruits, vegetables, meat, seafood, clothes, cookware and much more. Some animals were still alive. I felt too queasy to linger and take pictures of the butchers. Imagine strong grandmas wielding hatchets chopping through bone and meat with smiles on their faces. A few poor ducks sat in the dirt mostly plucked, wrapped in twine yet still alive. There were buckets full of live fish. Once you picked which ones you wanted, the seller would pick up the live fish and gut it-while it was still flopping about! Everything was obviously fresh and I enjoyed all the food in the Mekong Delta. However, seeing both the meat and fish made me consider going vegetarian again.
On the way back to the homestay we stopped at a sugarcane stand to try sugarcane juice mixed with kumquat, a local specialty. Delicious and refreshing.
We also visited with an elderly man who discussed the economic struggles related to the pandemic. His family also runs a homestay but tourism hasn’t recovered yet and they just occasionally receive guests. His brother had lived and worked in the US for 30 years so the family was mostly living off his social security benefits. $1000/month goes a lot farther in Vietnam than it would it the US.
Before we knew it, the experience was over and it was time to return to Ho Chi Minh City. I felt like I had truly experienced the Mekong Delta. I would have liked to learned more about what life was like for people living in the Delta during the war. The issue still felt sensitive and the guide and people we met just talked about the “devastation” and “horrors” that occurred in the region, which is telling in its own way.
This tour was absolutely worth the cost, and I’m so glad I left the luxury of the city. Thank you to all the kind locals who shared your lifestyle with me!
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36 hours in Saigon
November 26-27, 2022. Welcome to Vietnam! Vietnamese food is one of my favorites. I love the mix of flavors and textures. My first restaurant experience (seriously, as a newborn) was a Vietnamese restaurant in Portland, so, of course, I associate Vietnamese food with comfort. Moreover, I’d visited Vietnam before and loved it. Hanoi and Nimh Binh were some of my favorite destinations of my previous round the world trip. This time I’m forcing myself to visit new places. I’ll start in the south and work my way north.
First pho experience back in 1995 I flew into Ho Chi Minh City. In Southeast Asia, Grab is a popular ride share app. I used it to get a ride from the airport to my hotel for $4. Score! My hotel was across the street from the Saigon Opera House, right in the center. Saigon is still used as the name for the old quarter. Ho Chi Minh city is the whole metropolitan area.
The Park Hyatt Saigon is an amazing luxury hotel. I stayed for 2 nights by booking with Hyatt reward nights. One of the reward nights comes from my Hyatt credit card. The card charges $95/ year and gives you one free hotel night. I earned the other award night from staying in hotels. Therefore, I paid about $95 for two nights. The average nightly cost is around $250 so I saved $405 by participating in the rewards program.
The staff at the Park Hyatt were incredible. Every single person I interacted with greeted me by name and seemed to anticipate my needs. The reception staff were so happy to see someone traveling for more than just work or vacation. They gave me tons of suggestions and applauded my decision to stay with a homestay in the Mekong Delta.
I arrived to my hotel around 7pm. I hate to admit that I stayed in the room and ordered room service. I’m the worst backpacker ever! One of their restaurants was authentic Italian so I ordered a caprese panini with mozzarella di buffalo, homemade pesto and cherry tomatoes. It came with a side salad with such crisp lettuce. Delicious and absolutely worth the increased fee to get it delivered to the room.
I slept so well in my big fluffy white bed. The next morning I savored eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and lots of fresh fruit from the breakfast buffet. My globalist status, which expires at the end of the year, gives me free breakfast and I enjoyed myself to the fullest.
First course= tropical fruit I didn’t linger too long since the cathedral had mass in English at 930am. The cathedral is closed for renovations right now so the only way to visit is by attending mass. The cathedral was packed. I’m not sure if it was just tourists wanting to see inside or that it was the first Sunday of Advent. Either way, it was an enjoyable service.
I explored the city by foot afterwards. It’s so alive. I passed book sales, street musicians, wedding parties, and tons of young people drinking coffees at road side cafes. My destination was Noir. Noir is part charity, part fancy spa and restaurant. They train visually impaired people to provide massages or to work in the restaurant industry. At the spa, the massage rooms are just very dark, but in the restaurant patrons are blindfolded to experience what it’s like when you can’t see.
I got their signature massage which included hot stones and a mix of massage styles. The therapist was amazing and it was by far the best massage I’ve had this trip. Of course nothing is perfect so when I was relaxing with a cup of tea after the treatment, mosquitoes swarmed me and I got 5 bites. Oh well. If you are in Saigon, go to Noir! (Just wear insect repellent:)
Banh mi is a Vietnamese sandwich with French influences. The French colonized Vietnam from 1887 to 1954. They left behind lots of colonial buildings, baguettes, coffee and a very interesting mix of flavors. I had a mushroom banh mi for lunch. The crunch of the bread with the soft mushrooms and fresh crisp vegetables was perfection.
I finished the day with afternoon tea at the Hyatt. A pianist and violinist serenaded us. The French pastry chef and chocolatier created decadent treats. Afternoon tea is one of my favorite splurges and this was worth the money.
The Mekong Delta Homestay tour began at 8am the next day so I would have to leave the hotel early the following morning. Therefore, I decided to visit both the bar and the pool in the evening to fully appreciate the hotel. As a globalist, I enjoyed a free cocktail which was delightful. The bartender recommended “bananas in pajamas” which is based off fried bananas, a common street food. Delicious!
Goodnight! I couldn’t go to sleep without trying out the bathtub with the complementary bath salts and oils. Tomorrow the cultural immersion begins but this night I savored living in luxury.
Flying over the Mekong Delta before landing in Ho Chi Minh City -
Feeling Thankful in Thailand
November 12-26, 2022. Thailand, the land of smiles, beaches, temples, and good food. I’d visited the northern part of the country back in 2019. It was my first taste of Asia and I loved it. This time, I would head south to discover the islands and beaches.
I said goodbye to Nepal and my travel buddies. Flying to Bangkok was an easy 3hr flight from Kathmandu. I love getting to the airport early and spoiling myself in the lounge. My Chase Sapphire Reserve credit card provides priority pass lounge access which means I can access a lounge no matter which class I’m flying. I flew with AirAsia which is a budget airline. It was a nice and easy flight. My only recommendation is sit on the A,B,C side to view the Himalayas. I was on the other side and could barely glimpse them as we departed.
I remember arriving in Bangkok back in 2019. I was scared and the city felt chaotic and overwhelming. Haha! I have come so far as a traveler. My impressions this time were how clean and orderly it was. How the cars actually drove in their lanes, the sky was blue, the streets clean and spacious. It’s amazing how you adjust to different customs. I’d been in India and Nepal for less than one month yet Thailand still felt like a different world.
My time in Bangkok was mostly self indulgent. I went to mass in English on Sunday, wandered down the waterfront admiring churches and temples, ate pad Thai and Thai iced tea at a river front cafe, and then got a wonderful Thai massage and pedicure.
I stayed in a hostel (like a real backpacker) and hung out with the girls in my dorm. We ate street food in China Town, explored various markets and went to temples. My favorite temple was Wat Pho which houses the Giant Reclining Buddha. Interestingly, the complex also houses a massage school and medicine/ nursing program. There was an exhibit on the science behind Thai massage which I found interesting. The exhibit was combined with posters about the Pope and the great respect between Catholics and Buddhists. It surprised me that two of my interests, health/nursing and Catholicism/ religious tolerance, were on display at this temple.
I left Bangkok feeling really good. I was in the travel groove: hostels, night markets, motorbike taxis. The rhythms of Southeast Asia were coming back to me and I loved it. I flew south to Krabi to start my island adventures. Again, everything just went so smoothly. I got a free massage at the lounge, easily caught a shared minibus to my hotel in Ao Nang, paid $14/night for a nice hotel room, went to the “basic and boring” beach of Ao Nang and found it beautiful, then finished the night with delicious pad Thai and mango sticky rice for $3.
Ao Nang, just a quick stopover Things got really good in Koh Lanta. I lucked out with my accommodation. I just found it on booking.com but it was incredible. It was outside of the busy tourist area on a private beach cove. The kindest family ran it. They cooked delicious food, helped organize tours or transportation, had beachfront massages, loaned beach toys and snorkel equipment, provided bamboo huts to relax under, and even did my laundry. I splurged and booked a bungalow with air conditioning and a private bathroom. Amazingly, this only cost me $15/ night!! Even with eating all of my meals at their restaurant my daily expenses were $25-30/day.
Relaxing in a bamboo hut I was only going to spend 3 nights there but it was so nice I extended another night. I didn’t do much and that was exactly what I wanted. I walked along the beach, swam, ate a ton, enjoyed happy hour, read, and napped in my beach front bamboo hut. One day I went on an all day island hopping excursion. I met a great group of travelers my age and we had fun. However, after lunch I started feeling tired and achy.
My gratefulness for the family that ran the beach resort really started that evening. I knew I wasn’t just tired from snorkeling all day. My body was working on a fever. I told the family and they brought me food, water and medicine to the room.
Koh Lanta Coral Beach Resort I don’t know if this is a nurse thing or if I’m just crazy but whenever I get sick I start treating myself like a patient. I take vitals every 2 hours, monitor my intake and output, watch for symptom changes, and try to figure out what I have. Is it Dengue Fever? Or maybe just Travelers Diarrhea? Malaria? Which medication should I take? Will the ibuprofen cause a hemorrhage if I have dengue? Is it too soon to take antibiotics? Will it cause antibiotic resistance? How high should I let the fever get before contacting a doctor? Which clinics look up to western standards and take my insurance?
My temperature peaked at 103f after 2 days. I’m still not sure what it was. I did not get my blood tested for dengue or malaria. Thankfully, I’d kept myself hydrated so I was only a bit weak. I stayed at Coral Beach Resort for 7 days in total to give myself time to recover.
Thank you so much to the lovely family who hosted me. I won’t forget the kindness and compassion you all showed me.
First view of Phi Phi as I left the ferry dock It was time to move on. I had planned to go caving and hiking in Khao Sok National Park but decided something more relaxing would probably be better. Koh Phi Phi here I come! Phi Phi is located between Koh Lanta and Phuket making it the perfect destination. My expectations were pretty low since I heard it was overrun with drunk backpackers. This proved false and as soon as I stopped off the ferry I was amazed.
Walking to my guesthouse I had arrived in paradise. The sand was white and almost floury in texture. So soft. The ocean was bathwater warm and a beautiful turquoise color. Palm trees lined the way. Yes, there were shops and other tourists but it didn’t take away from the experience. People were renting lounge chairs for $2.5. I laid on one and just absorbed the moment. There was a breeze so in the shade it was very pleasant.
How was this my life? How did I get so lucky that I was able to experience these places? It was Wednesday, November 23rd and I was sitting on the beach drinking a fresh coconut. I’d recovered from my illness and life just looked so bright. I could be back home working. I always work Thanksgiving so I can be off for Christmas. Instead, I was three months into a round the world trip. Thailand is a travelers dream. The infrastructure is in place and everyone will act as a travel agent. This makes is incredibly easy to travel or go on day trips. Delicious food and fresh fruit is available on every corner. Massages are cheap and plentiful.
I spent Thanksgiving cruising around the islands off Koh Phi Phi. Snorkeling with sharks, walking along beautiful beaches, and even watching monkeys swim. I don’t know how this is my life but I’m so thankful for it. Thank you to everyone who has supported and encouraged me. Thank you to everyone I’ve met along the way who has helped make this adventure so amazing. I am so grateful that I get to experience so much of what our world has to offer.
Thanksgiving splurge. Viking nature resort which is only accessible by boat. I finished my time in Thailand with a night in Phuket. I stayed near the airport which happens to be situated next to the beach. It is possible to stand directly beneath the planes as they land. Amazing, exhilarating and terrifying.
Bye Thailand! I know I’ll be back again soon 🙂
Elizabeth’s Adventures 
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