Hi! I’m Elizabeth. Let’s go explore the world.
-
Winter in Northern Europe
November 29-December 11, 2023.
Stockholm, Sweden. After the sunny Mediterranean, I wanted something different. Christmas markets and coziness called me. The first stop was Stockholm, Sweden. It was snowy, got dark around 3pm and the hostel was perfect. The hostel was ideal for cold weather. You had to take your shoes off when you entered, there was free tea and coffee all day, you could curl up with a blanket on one of the multiple couches, they had a sauna, and you could borrow ice skates!
I had a lot of fun using the TooGoodToGo app in Stockholm. Food was expensive and I wanted to try as much as possible. TooGoodToGo allows restaurants and bakeries to list meals or bags of goodies that would otherwise be wasted. I used it to explore neighborhoods I would not normally visit as a tourist and try delicious food.
On the overnight bus from Stockholm to Copenhagen, I got two seats to myself and actually slept a little! I arrived to a cold, damp city and forced myself to attend a city walking tour to stay awake. I visited a few museums mostly because it was too cold outside.
Copenhagen, Denmark.
Next, it was time to fly to Gdansk, Poland. I had visited Poland on my first round the world trip and really enjoyed Krakow. One of my good friends is Polish and her mother’s cooking is unforgettable. Thankfully, I had time to really dive into Poland and visit a few cities this visit. I got an AirBnb in Gdansk and enjoyed living a local life for 4 days. The old town is so beautiful and the Christmas markets very lively.
I took a bus through the Polish countryside to Warsaw, Poland. I wasn’t sure how I would feel about such a big city but I loved it. The parks and small milk bars (old communist era subsidized cafeterias) gave it such a unique vibe. It snowed multiple days which made everything look prettier.
I finished my Polish adventure in Poznan. It was any easy train from Warsaw and serviced by low cost airlines making it a perfect last stop. Its a small university town. It felt unique. Check out the crochet Christmas tree. I also went hot chocolate tasting in Poznan. Yum!
There is so much more of Poland to explore. I find Poland to be such a nice European country to visit. The food is simple yet delicious, the people are kind yet not overly friendly, there are tons of historic city centers and small towns to explore, and there is so much history. I’d love to visit the mountains in the south someday!
I flew back to the US via Madrid to be with my family for Christmas. Another extended trip/ sabbatical had come to an end and it was time to go back to work. I’d camped in a national park in Tanzania, hikes hundreds of miles in Spain, slept in the dessert in Morocco, cruised the Mediterranean, went ice skating in Sweden and really lived life. I still question how this became my life and I am so grateful for it. Thanks for coming along for the journey 🙂
-
Southern Spain and Mediterranean Cruise
November 20-28, 2023.
Alcazaba in Málaga Yes, I went back to Spain. Spain will always have a special place in my heart. It was my first European country, my first taste of independence at 16 and my home for two years during university. I speak the language and understand the culture. I’ve lived with three different host mothers and draw inspiration from them in most of my cooking. I’m slowly visiting the whole country and would love to live there again someday. So yes, I had to come back to Spain after visiting Morocco.
I would stay in the south this time. Andalucia. I had not visited Málaga previously so I would start there. Málaga is a cruise ship port and I was worried it would be too touristy. It was perfect in late November. Not crowded, sunny mild days, gorgeous promenades and tasty food. Lots of expats spend the winter here I could see myself being one of them. The city is such a unique mix of cultures. In the center of town, there is a Roman theater with a Moorish fortress above it. It has what I enjoyed most about Morocco with European conveniences and less gender harassment.
I wanted to visit another city and picked Granada to visit the Alhambra. My mother took my sister and I as teenagers in the middle of the summer. I remember being impressed but not much else. Granada is such a beautiful city. There is a large university presence so it feels young and lively. The Sierra Nevadas are visible from the city.
Granada and the Alhambra
After the Alhambra, I treated myself to porras con chocolate. Porras are a fatter version of churros. Delicious.
Next it was time to travel back to Málaga and catch my cruise ship! I love a good deal and have been considering a repositioning cruise from Europe to the North America for a while now. Cruise companies spend the summer in Europe and the winter in the Caribbean. Since the ships have to sail across the Atlantic anyways, they offer discounted fares to recuperate some of the cost. I went through a sailor/ pirate phase and always thought crossing an ocean in a ship would be cool. However, after I booked the cruise I decided 21 days on a ship probably was not the best use of my time and as a young solo traveler I might get lonely. Thankfully, I was able to change my cruise to only sail the first four days. The itinerary was Málaga, sea-day, Marseilles, Genoa/Milan.
I am glad I switched to the shorter cruise. It was relaxing but I was tired of the people after 4 days. The cruise assigned dinner partners and having to make polite conversation for 3 nights in a row with the same people was exhausting. I would have preferred the option to eat in the dining rooms without forced dining partners. Sometimes I just want to look out the window and enjoy my meal. This is probably an introvert problem.
The ship was not too crowded and I enjoyed lounging on the deck watching the Mediterranean go by. It was very windy but so sunny.
The first port was Marseilles, France. Sadly, disembarking and taking the shuttle to town was a huge hassle and put me in a bad mood for exploring the city. There were multiple ships docking at once and the poor port was overwhelmed. My highlight was this beautiful church with stripes.
I went back to the ship early and had delicious pizza and pasta. The cruise line was Italian and they always had handmade pizza and pasta at the buffet.
The final port was Genoa, Italy. The warm weather ended here and it rain throughout the day. Genoa had a port city feel. Grungy and lived in. Surprisingly, the church in Genoa had a similar striped partner to the one in Marseilles.
In the evening I took the train from Genoa to Milan, Italy. It was shocking to be off the ship and have to plan my own travel again! Not having to research restaurants and local dishes to try is such a benefit of cruising. Milan was so cold after the warmth of Spain and Morocco.
The cathedral in Milan, Italy was impressive. I also enjoyed visiting a chapel where skulls had been used as decoration. This was because the hospital graveyard was full and they needed somewhere to put the bones! Very unique!
That ended my time in Southern Europe. It was almost December and I decided to embrace the cold before heading home for Christmas.
-
Essential Morocco
November 9-19, 2023.
Morocco. It is just across the Strait of Gibraltar from Spain and the rest of Europe. Although the shortest distance across the Strait is only 13 km, Morocco feels drastically different than everywhere in Europe. I visited for a long weekend while studying at SLU-Madrid on a group tour, which ultimately caused me to avoid group tours for years. There were over 40 people on the tour, and we were just bussed around. I knew that experience hadn’t done Morocco justice.
Baby Traveler Elizabeth in Chefchaouen in 2014 Over the past 10 years, I have learned a lot about travel, yet I still opted for a guided tour. This time, I chose Intrepid Travel because I trusted they would provide me with educational experiences and help me engage with a more authentic Morocco. Additionally, I prefer guided trips in countries where solo women travelers often encounter unwanted attention.
Volubilis, Roman town outside of Moulay Idriss 
Fes was the old Morocco I envisioned. Tiny alleys in the Medina. Old beautiful madrassas. Lots of artisans. Palaces.
So many beautiful doorways with intricate tile work or engravings.
After Fes, we started driving into the desert but stopped in Midelt, a small market village. We walked through farmland and past shepherds before arriving at this lovely local house for Moroccan mint tea.
Walk through small town led to tea in a local house The sand dunes of the Sahara beckoned. We passed oasis towns with lush palm dates, before the dirt transitioned to sand. This experience was much better than my previous camel rides. We spent the night in tents in the desert, and a few nomads guided us on walks with the camels. It was so quiet. All we heard were the camel’s footsteps.
After leaving the desert, we drove past more palm date oasis towns before arriving in Todra Gorge. While the gorge was nice, the village at the mouth was even better. The area was lush with family farms, where almonds, fruits, and vegetables grew abundantly. The newer parts of the town were interspersed with old mud buildings. As I wandered around, I felt like an explorer. I got so engrossed in the sights that I accidentally fell into a 6-foot hole! Oops!
The last stop before returning to the city was Ait Benhaddou. This town is renowned for being the filming location of many movies. It is a great example of Moroccan earthen clay architecture. The Kasbah (fortified village) was built into a hill and had a beautiful lookout point at the top.
The trip ended with a few days in Marrakesh. We explored the vibrant markets and beautiful palaces and experienced a local hammam. I will always try the local bathhouse, and this one was lovely. It was a very local environment, with children playing while women scrubbed each other. The Morocco redemption tour finished, and I left feeling thoroughly satisfied. Thank you, Zak (tour guide) and Intrepid for a great trip!
-
Camino de Santiago: Part 2
October 20 – 31, 2023. Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela.
Knights of Templar Castle , Ponferrada. I took five days off from hiking to allow my body to recover from the first half of the Camino. This was unplanned and set me behind schedule, especially since I had a tour planned in Morocco for early November. While I probably could have pushed harder, I decided to take a train to make the rest of the journey easier. I’m much happier walking 15 to 25 kilometers daily, rather than 25 to 35 kilometers.
I took the train from Burgos to León, and then on to Ponferrada. As I watched the countryside and small Spanish towns pass by, I felt a sense of sadness, imagining all the places I could have explored but wouldn’t get to see.
Leon 
Ponferrada The journey changed for me after Ponferrada. I met a wonderful group of pilgrims, and we kept staying at the same hostels. It was so nice to build a community through shared meals and long walks.
Mary Magdalene sits at Jesus’s right in this Final Supper painting. 
Wine tasting and tour in La Rioja 
The rains arrived 
Villafranca de Bierzo to Trabadelo via Pradela. Far away from the roads and up over mountains! Chestnut orchards 
Mountain huts in Galicia. Rainy, windy, foggy, and so beautiful 
Samos Monastery. First founded in the 6th century. Felt like a world apart from modern life. 
The rain continued every day, and I was particularly grateful for my rain gear, dry bag, and waterproof shoes. Somehow, I managed to avoid any blisters after restarting the Camino.
After Samos, I reached Sarria, where the swarm of pilgrims arrived. I had read that many people walk only the last 100 kilometers, which makes the trail seem louder and busier. However, I don’t think this is a bad thing. Everyone experiences the Camino in their own way, and there is no single correct approach.
To avoid the crowds during the last 100 kilometers, I planned to skip the main stops. This strategy worked exceptionally well; I entered towns at different times than the masses and chose to stay in small villages instead.
As I entered the outskirts of Santiago, I noticed a rainbow arching above the path. The rain mostly held off. I had spent most of the day hiking with an American man who was accompanied by all six of his brothers. They were on this journey to celebrate the eldest brother’s 70th birthday.
Arriving in Santiago was an emotional experience. After a month of walking, I found myself in a bustling city filled with hundreds of other pilgrims, all arriving from different directions. It was exciting to see fellow travelers from various parts of my journey throughout the city. People would wave and catch up for a few minutes in the streets. The basic routine of the Camino had come to an end.
Fortunately, the day after my arrival was All Saints’ Day, which meant there would be a special mass at the Cathedral with the Botafumeiro, a large incense holder that swings up through the naves. This was a magical experience. The Cathedral was packed, with standing room only. The ceremony involved men in red robes and chanting music, creating a mystical and moving atmosphere. It was the perfect finale to my pilgrimage. No photos were allowed.
While the mass at the Cathedral marked the official end of my Camino, I chose to continue on to the coast for a few nights in Finisterre. I wanted some time to relax and reflect on my journey. Although some people hike, I took the bus (the motion sickness I experienced would probably convince me to walk in the future). Finisterre was exactly what I needed. I rented a small attic apartment with ocean views, where I could watch storms give way to sunshine.
During my stay, I went on day hikes, including a trek to El Faro de Fisterra, which is another endpoint of the Camino. I was fortunate enough to spot a pod of dolphins crossing the bay and watched them until they disappeared from sight. I kept running into old walking partners from earlier in my journey, and the magic of the Camino continued to unfold.
I’m incredibly grateful for all the people who made my Camino experience special, especially the Canadian couple who adopted me and checked on me every night. Despite the struggles and exhaustion, I look back on the experience very fondly and hope to walk another route in the future. Until then—Buen Camino!
-
Camino de Santiago: Part 1
October 1-15, 2023. SJPP to Burgos
The Camino de Santiago or the Way of Saint James is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Since the 9th century, pilgrims have journeyed to the north of Spain to see the remains of St. James. I chose the French route (Camino Frances) since it offered varied terrain and the most pilgrim infrastructure.
I arrived at the start in St. Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) in worse shape than I had hoped. My travels in Zanzibar proved amazing, yet left me with a terrible case of traveler’s sickness. I had also formed small blisters running around Amsterdam and Paris. Not the most auspicious start to a 500 mile trek. I bought trekking poles, new socks, lots of Compeed (fancy blister bandages), and stomach medication.
The excitement of the Camino absorbed me. The first night I stayed in a lovely albergue (pilgrim’s hostel) where the owners served a delicious homegrown vegetarian dinner and where I met my first other pilgrims. The most memorable pair was a recent college graduate with her uncle. They had hiked the Camino a few years before, and told a story about the day they hiked over the Pyrenees Mountains. They separated on the way up, and the uncle got stuck in a bad storm. He waited it out in a mountain shelter, not reaching his accommodation until 11 pm. Yikes! Not the story I wanted to hear since the first part of the Camino is crossing the Pyrenees.
I tried to ease myself into hiking by splitting up the first day. I stopped in Orisson after a surprisingly difficult uphill from SJPP. This albergue also hosted a group dinner and I enjoyed seeing a few of the same faces from the previous night while also making new friends. The group dinners were a highlight of the Camino for me.
Fog covered the Pyrenees the next morning and it only cleared once I started to descend into Roncesvalles. Roncesvalles has been hosting pilgrims since the 900s. Each evening there is a pilgrim blessing which hasn’t changed for over 1000 years. The priest was very enthusiastic and musically talented which made for a memorable and moving ceremony. He was just one of the many who went above and beyond in caring for the pilgrims (me).
The path was supposed to get easier but it still was hilly and challenging for me. The unseasonably warm weather (85F) did not help either. Eventually, I made it to Pamplona.
I fell into the rhythm of walking, eating, and sleeping. My body still hurt but I was enjoying the journey. Talking to people from around the world, exploring tiny Spanish villages, eating fresh figs and blackberries along the path, and indulging in delicious meals along the way. It was such a simple life that required very little.
Santiago Peregrino or Pilgrim St James appeared in many churches along the way. I found it inspiring to see how many other pilgrims had completed the same journey that I traveled. 
Enjoying my “second breakfast” in
Los ArcosEach day I would wake up, have a small breakfast, walk 5-10km, stop for a “second breakfast”, walk another 10-20km, arrive at the albergue, shower, wash my clothes, rest, eat dinner, and then go to bed so I could wake up and do it all over again.
Vineyards and the tiny town of Ciraqui My favorite time to walk was dawn. Watching the sky light up and hearing the birds sing filled me with such gratitude for life.
Church in Torres del Río, Irache wine fountain, Viana, Nájera, Sarcophagus of Doña Blanca from 1156. 
Tons of vineyards 
Shared meals allowed for such community along the Camino. Some with the whole albergue and others with only one other person. 
Rolling hills of farmland proved the most difficult due to the very minimal shade and repetitive nature. Every now and then a tower or castle would appear on a hilltop providing a window into the Spain of old. 
Amazing murals. First against domestic abuse and second honoring the storks. 
Church in Atapuerca, gorgeous old oaks, cross with early morning fog 
Burgos Cathedral at night I arrived in Burgos after two weeks of walking. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon and to me it felt like everyone was out enjoying the fall day. I walked into town along the “green river route” which was gorgeous. A geologist from Texas accompanied me and we chatted the whole way. It felt like such a triumphant moment. I had walked 283km, including a total of 6103m elevation gain and 5460m elevation loss. My body had mostly held up, except I developed chaffing and my right knee was irritated. Time to give my body a rest before continuing on to Santiago de Compostela.
-
East Africa Safari
Serengeti morning September 16-28, 2023: Let’s go exploring! I traveled with Intrepid again on a small group tour across Kenya and Tanzania. It was an overland trip meaning we drove in a large expedition vehicle. Animal safaris and cultural activities mixed together to provide a comprehensive experience. Our first stop was a Masai village to learn about the work Helen is doing.
Helen is one of the most inspirational people that I have met. At age 12, she was rescued by a Catholic nun from a child marriage to an older man. She was the 5th wife. Helen was educated and became a school teacher. Over time, she got fed up with the patriarchal system and decided to start her own foundation. She believes female genital mutilation is torture forced on children (8-10 years old) who are not able to consent. It has lasting physical effects such a fistulas in addition to pain and infection. She wants girls to get educated instead of sold into marriage for cows. Going rate for a girl is 3-4 cows. Currently she runs both a residential center for girls and a coed primary school.
It was such a fascinating visit. This was not a tourist village but a place people actually live. Helen has only partnered with Intrepid. They pay her to let us camp, and she uses the money to help pay for the schools. We learned about Masai traditions and current actions to make the community sustainable for the future. This experience pushed me and I am still processing. Parts seem beautiful and loving while others seem cruel and harmful. I’m trying so hard not to judge, and I’m grateful that Helen is a Masai and not a foreigner trying to make changes.
Masai village life With our minds still spellbound by Helen and the village, we made the short drive to the national park entrance. As soon as we crossed into the Masai Mara Park, the grasses got lusher. Domesticated animals are not allowed to graze in the park and the difference was radical. Overgrazing is a problem worldwide and it bothers me so much. Why can’t we reduce our dependence on animals as a primary food source? The Masai consider livestock to be a show of wealth, so I do not believe anything will change soon.
The Masai Mara is incredible. The rains came early this year so the plains were lush and green. There were herds in the thousands of wildebeests and zebras. All types of antelopes roamed, and there were families of giraffes feeding with elephants mixed in. We saw cheetah brothers resting after a kill, a huge pride of lions sleeping in the shade, and two leopards on a ledge overlooking a river.
The wildlife was incredible, but sadly the experience was soured by a jeep driver who kept trying to get as close as possible to the animals. There were a few times when rangers came to protect and limit visitors near the big cats. Instead of listening and following the rules created to protect the animals, he would wait for the rangers to leave and then try to get close again. It was so frustrating. I’m not sure if it was a language barrier or what. We said, “That’s enough. Let’s move on,” or “We can see well from here,” but it didn’t change anything.
Masai Mara It would have been impossible to not see things in the Masai Mara. We were given some of the best animal view opportunities. I just wish the driver could have been more respectful of the awe-inspiring creatures. We came across a large pride of lions. One of the males was sleeping beneath a tree. The driver drove the jeep right up next to him which woke the lion up. The lion walked to another tree and laid back down but this time the jeep drove and circled the new tree. The amazing animal was stressed and it was our fault.
Lake Victoria Next we crossed into Tanzania and spent the night on Lake Victoria. We learned that Tanzania is a made-up name when Tanganyika and Zanzibar were merged into a single country in 1964. Tanzania was much more Muslim while Kenya was mostly Christian.
A few nights later, we slept in the Serengeti National Park. This was Lion King come to life. We saw Pride Rock (lions like rocks since they hold heat at night), enormous herds of animals, fell asleep to the hyenas cries, and enjoyed beautiful sunrises and sunsets. We didn’t have jeep drivers and instead went about in our group’s large overland truck. I actually preferred this since we didn’t have to worry about upsetting the animals as much. We saw everything I was hoping to see: lions, leopards, elephants, giraffes, serval cat, hippos, buffalo, wildebeest, zebras, baboons, impalas and many more. I kept having to remind myself that it was real. I’m unbelievably blessed to get to experience so much that our world has to offer.
The last day on the mainland was spent in Ngorongoro Crater. It was a large crater that prevented animals from leaving so they do not migrate like the other animals in the area. This meant it was a very reliable place to spot wildlife. It felt like a ride at Disney. There was a set track everyone followed and hundreds of jeeps. It was a lot drier than the other parks we’d visited. The animals were very complacent and even the skittish zebra did not walk away when the jeep passed. We saw flamingos, a rhino, a few lions and lots of zebras.
Our safari was over. Now it was time to head to the airport and fly to Stonetown, Zanzibar to round out our visit to East Africa.
Zanzibar is a large island right off east Africa. It is in the Indian Ocean and has been an important port for centuries. Arabs came to colonize and the Indians to trade. Slaves, spices and ivory were the major exports. The mix of Arab and Indian influences is incredible and unique. We toured around Stonetown, visited a spice plantation, then arrived in the north to enjoy the beautiful beaches for a few days. Stunning white sand and turquoise waters greeted us. Intrepid put us up in a nice resort and so we all just relaxed after 10 days camping.
This was another amazing tour with Intrepid. I learned about such a variety of topics. I love broadening my knowledge… from environmental challenges to women’s health to traditional tribal practices to wildlife biology and conservation and even to the unique mixing of Arabic and Indian culture in Zanzibar … it all flowed so well together while still being fun.
The group worked collaboratively to set up tents, wash dishes and support each other. Our 3 crew members ensured the trip ran smoothly and were quick to offer a smile. Thank you!
This East Africa trip was everything I had hoped for and more. I am already looking forward to what I can experience and learn from my next Intrepid trip. Special thanks to Jet, Melissa, Millie, Bia, Tess and Ebony for sharing some photos!
-
Travel to Nairobi, Kenya
14 hours in Qsuites! September 12-14, 2023: I have a thing for routines. This is ironic since my life is constantly changing. If something works well, I like to repeat it. Last year I discovered that Qatar offered very valuable award tickets from the USA to Africa. When I decided to visit East Africa this trip, I made a point of searching out these flights. America Airlines is allied with Qatar Airways so I started searching with them. Sadly, Qatar has drastically limited the available award space so it took lots of searching. I could have flown American Airlines on a more direct flight but instead I flew Qatar from Miami to Doha to Nairobi. This required a “positioning” flight since I don’t live in Miami.
The effort it took to book the Qatar flights was well worth it. The service was impeccable, food delicious and seat comfortable. The 14 hour flight went too fast. I had an 8 hour layover in Doha which I spent in the lounge eating sushi, taking a shower, sleeping in a private room, and savoring multiple desserts. After another 6 hour flight I arrived in Nairobi.
Breakfast on the flight and meals in the lounge 
6 hours in “regular” business class I was in Kenya to visit the wildlife reserves and national parks. Last year I discovered overland and camping safaris in Southern Africa and realized I also needed to visit the Masai Mara and Serengeti. Thankfully, Intrepid Travel had an interesting tour that promised lots of game drives, interaction with locals and the beaches of Zanzibar to finish it off. My flight arrived two days before the tour started so I could explore the city and adjust to the time change.
The first morning I went to the National Museum of Kenya to educate myself on Kenya. The museum was fascinating and covered the natural side (animals and birds of Kenya, climates, evolution and early humans) to the sociopolitical side (tribes, cultural traditions, trade, colonization and independence). Kenya only became independent of the British in 1963.
The ticket also included a entrance to the “snake park”. The green mamba was the prettiest to me. They had massive pythons which apparently can swallow a human.
The next day I paid a local guide to show me more of the city and answer my questions about Kenya. He had tons of opinions to share. I learned about his thoughts on inflation, rural/ urban opportunities, and the move from a more socialist to capitalistic government with privatization of hospitals and other services.
Nairobi from the convention center It interests me to see the same issues playing out all over the world. I enjoyed seeing Nairobi from a local’s point of view. He took me to lunch with a bunch of government employees. I learned how to eat ugali (boiled maiz mush) with my hands and scoop up the other foods. The locals had a good laugh as I attempted to copy them.
The white food is the Ugali. You mush it until the consistency is right then use it to eat the other food with your hands. Nairobi, Kenya was an interesting city. I am grateful to have had a few days exploring the urban side of Kenya before diving into the rural one.
-
Here We Go Again!
September 2023: It’s time! I’ve worked my 26 weeks this year so now let’s go explore the world! I keep telling myself I’ll stop traveling and settle down but the world is calling. There is so much to see and do! I’m giving myself another 4 months to vagabond around the world. The big goal for this trip is to hike the Camino of Santiago from St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Additional goals include: experience the Great Migration of wildebeests and zebra in the Serengeti; visit more countries in Africa and Europe; and use airline miles for maximum value.
I really wanted to explore the ancient history of Egypt and Jordan, but Egypt still has a Level 3 Travel Advisory from the US State Department. The US State Department ranks countries between 1 and 4, with 4 meaning DO NOT TRAVEL and 1 meaning use normal precautions. I limit myself to countries that score a 1 or a 2. I’m sure many people visit high scoring countries and have safe trips but I just do not feel comfortable taking the risk as a solo female traveler. Instead I plan to visit Morocco with an Intrepid tour. Someday I’ll experience the ancient temples and pyramids of Egypt.
This trip will be limited to Europe and Africa. I’m already sad that I won’t be able to visit Asia on this trip since I really love that part of the world. Hopefully dedicating five weeks to hiking the Camino will be a worthwhile experience. I hiked a different route back in 2019 and truly enjoyed the pilgrim experience.
The preparations have begun. It is time to organize my supplies, visit the dentist, update my vaccinations, treat all my gear with insect repellent, notify the banks, buy travel insurance, get important papers in order, and enjoy the comforts of America (driving my car, groceries stores, target, everyone speaks my language, knowing where things are without getting directions, eating my favorite foods, and visiting friends/family). Let’s do this! (I hope you can feel the excitement bubbling under my skin. I can’t stop smiling). First stop-Nairobi, Kenya!
-
Road Trip from Montana to Chicago (and a quick trip to Mexico for a wedding)
August 17-29, 2023.
Where did the summer go? Somehow my travel nurse contract in Montana had come to an end, and I was headed east to catch a flight from Chicago. I decided a week-long road trip would allow me to take the scenic route, visiting the Canadian Rockies and the North Dakotan Badlands on the way.
Sadly, the fire season was really ramping up, and the day I left evacuations were declared in parts of British Columbia. Thankfully, the roads and national parks were still open but the air quality was poor. I could barely see Banff, but the air was clearer in the Lake Louise region.
It rained on my first day in Lake Louise, which helped the air quality. My favorite hike was the Plain of Six Glaciers which departed from Lake Louise. I picked it because I’m fascinated with glaciers and it had a tea house. Who doesn’t love fresh baked goods and warm beverages on a hike? As you can see, the hike was incredible. Glacial rivers, tall trees, wildflowers, and massive glaciers creaking at the end.
Canada feels so much more European to me. Even the national parks. I’m trying to think of why it feels this way. Maybe the incredible diversity of people, or the use of public transportation vs private vehicles or mountain huts with tea? The landscape was similar to Montana (its only a few hours north) but the feeling I got was different. It could just be me wanting to feel something different.
I tried some Canadian dishes such as poutine and beavertails but otherwise cooked for myself at the campground. I also enjoyed a few Tim Horton’s coffees.
It was time to continue east. I crossed back into Montana and drove all the way to North Dakota before settling for the night. I wanted to take the northern route and visit states I had not been to before.
North Dakota surprised me. Some states have reputations for beauty and others don’t. Theodore Roosevelt came to North Dakota to become a cattle rancher and feel in love with the area. I can see why. It is such a unique landscape. There were prairies with bison herds, steep cliffs covered with Bentonite clay which looks like popcorn when dry but becomes very slippery when wet. The Missouri river wound its way through the valleys. Prickly pear somehow manages to grow. Prairie dogs built large towns.
It was peaceful and quiet. Very few people visited the North Unit of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park where I was staying. Most go right off I-94 to the South Unit. I could imagine the US as a sparsely populated land from the 1800s with people trying to seek their fortunes. I’m almost thankful that some places weren’t that habitable to the European settlers since it has allowed them to remain wild longer. Of course once outside of the park, I saw lots of ranching, farming, and oil fields. It was another reminder of how critical it is to protect and preserve our public lands.
On a misty morning, I left the wild of the national park and continued east. The unseasonably cool weather I had been experiencing (50-60s) turned unseasonably warm (90-100s) as I crossed into Minnesota. I got to meet up with a lovely friend and enjoyed a tasty dinner. Thanks, Lianne!
With only 400 miles to go, I arrived at Chicago’s O’Hare airport a week after leaving Montana. Time to do laundry, switch from my camping gear to fancy wedding clothes and then head to the airport to help marry one of my closest college friends.
Cheers to Monika and Tom for a lovely wedding weekend in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. It was so much fun catching up with old college friends and getting to know new friends.
-
National Parks: Glacier, Yellowstone and Grand Teton (all while working in Montana)
Glacier National Park with smoke from Canadian fires May-August, 2023.
This was the first time I took a travel nurse job for the location over the hospital and pay. In the past, I’d prioritized high acuity, large teaching centers where I would grow and advance as a pediatric critical care nurse. However, while I love taking care of really sick children and their families, it does take a toll on me. Travel is a great way for me to recover both physically and emotionally from 12 hours of intense nightshifts. Down shifting to a lower pressure job would also help. To prevent burnout I thought someplace where I could really enjoy the surroundings plus work at a lower acuity facility might be a nice break. Kalispell, MT has a very small PICU and children’s hospital which advertised new travel nurse jobs right when I started looking for my next position after Seattle. Small hospitals can be their own type of scary due to lack of resources but thankfully I was pleasantly surprised with Logan Health Children’s Hospital.
First stop in Montana was Glacier National Park. It is stunning and I would have loved to go every week. The peaks, crystal clear lakes, and forests are spectacular. I camped here twice, and I loved hiking in different areas of the park. Sadly, once tourist season started, it got very crowded and harder to visit.
Not a national park, but Garnet Ghost Town was a highlight of my time in Montana. It is outside of Missoula in an abandoned mining town. Visitors are allowed to walk around and explore the buildings. People left so much behind. There were stoves, bed frames, clothes and even dishes. I was the only person when I visited, and there were no guides or staff there. I really felt like an explorer as I walked around.
In late June, I drove to Yellowstone National Park in the northwest corner of Wyoming. The geothermal activity is incredible, and I loved walking around the different geysers and pools. It was a different experience than my usual mountain hikes, since traffic and crowds were present. Part of me loved that so many people wanted to experience the natural wonders our country has to offer, while another side of me hated having so many people around since it disturbs the wildlife and delicate landscapes. Hopefully, the educational side of the parks will instill a love for the outdoors and encourage conservation for generations to come.
Yellowstone had so much more than the geothermal activity. I adored seeing bison with their babies, herds of elk, a grizzly mama and her two cubs, tons of birds, deer, and lots of small mammals like picas and ground squirrels.
Next was Grand Teton National Park, also located in Wyoming just south of Yellowstone. I’d seen pictures but nothing had prepared me for the grandeur of the Tetons. They rise up from the prairies without any foothills. Then there are canyons and lakes just teeming with life. I saw my first bear while hiking but missed out on seeing a moose. Grand Teton National Park felt like summer camp. You could swim in the lake, get ice cream from the local general store, learn from the rangers, or go for scenic hikes. Still busy but nothing like Yellowstone.
My last major adventure was hiking Mt. Aeneas at sunrise. It is only an hour or so from Kalispell but felt so remote. Huckleberries lined the trail and mountain goats joined me at the top (plus a few other hikers). I find a special serenity in alpine lakes and meadows in the morning.
I’m so glad to have had the opportunity this summer to work with great coworkers in a supportive environment, while also taking advantage of time outdoors absorbing the beauty of our planet.
Elizabeth’s Adventures 
You must be logged in to post a comment.