September 16-28, 2023: Let’s go exploring! I traveled with Intrepid again on a small group tour across Kenya and Tanzania. It was an overland trip meaning we drove in a large expedition vehicle. Animal safaris and cultural activities mixed together to provide a comprehensive experience. Our first stop was a Masai village to learn about the work Helen is doing.

Helen is one of the most inspirational people that I have met. At age 12, she was rescued by a Catholic nun from a child marriage to an older man. She was the 5th wife. Helen was educated and became a school teacher. Over time, she got fed up with the patriarchal system and decided to start her own foundation. She believes female genital mutilation is torture forced on children (8-10 years old) who are not able to consent. It has lasting physical effects such a fistulas in addition to pain and infection. She wants girls to get educated instead of sold into marriage for cows. Going rate for a girl is 3-4 cows. Currently she runs both a residential center for girls and a coed primary school.

It was such a fascinating visit. This was not a tourist village but a place people actually live. Helen has only partnered with Intrepid. They pay her to let us camp, and she uses the money to help pay for the schools. We learned about Masai traditions and current actions to make the community sustainable for the future. This experience pushed me and I am still processing. Parts seem beautiful and loving while others seem cruel and harmful. I’m trying so hard not to judge, and I’m grateful that Helen is a Masai and not a foreigner trying to make changes.

With our minds still spellbound by Helen and the village, we made the short drive to the national park entrance. As soon as we crossed into the Masai Mara Park, the grasses got lusher. Domesticated animals are not allowed to graze in the park and the difference was radical. Overgrazing is a problem worldwide and it bothers me so much. Why can’t we reduce our dependence on animals as a primary food source? The Masai consider livestock to be a show of wealth, so I do not believe anything will change soon.

The Masai Mara is incredible. The rains came early this year so the plains were lush and green. There were herds in the thousands of wildebeests and zebras. All types of antelopes roamed, and there were families of giraffes feeding with elephants mixed in. We saw cheetah brothers resting after a kill, a huge pride of lions sleeping in the shade, and two leopards on a ledge overlooking a river.

The wildlife was incredible, but sadly the experience was soured by a jeep driver who kept trying to get as close as possible to the animals. There were a few times when rangers came to protect and limit visitors near the big cats. Instead of listening and following the rules created to protect the animals, he would wait for the rangers to leave and then try to get close again. It was so frustrating. I’m not sure if it was a language barrier or what. We said, “That’s enough. Let’s move on,” or “We can see well from here,” but it didn’t change anything.

It would have been impossible to not see things in the Masai Mara. We were given some of the best animal view opportunities. I just wish the driver could have been more respectful of the awe-inspiring creatures. We came across a large pride of lions. One of the males was sleeping beneath a tree. The driver drove the jeep right up next to him which woke the lion up. The lion walked to another tree and laid back down but this time the jeep drove and circled the new tree. The amazing animal was stressed and it was our fault.

Next we crossed into Tanzania and spent the night on Lake Victoria. We learned that Tanzania is a made-up name when Tanganyika and Zanzibar were merged into a single country in 1964. Tanzania was much more Muslim while Kenya was mostly Christian.

A few nights later, we slept in the Serengeti National Park. This was Lion King come to life. We saw Pride Rock (lions like rocks since they hold heat at night), enormous herds of animals, fell asleep to the hyenas cries, and enjoyed beautiful sunrises and sunsets. We didn’t have jeep drivers and instead went about in our group’s large overland truck. I actually preferred this since we didn’t have to worry about upsetting the animals as much. We saw everything I was hoping to see: lions, leopards, elephants, giraffes, serval cat, hippos, buffalo, wildebeest, zebras, baboons, impalas and many more. I kept having to remind myself that it was real. I’m unbelievably blessed to get to experience so much that our world has to offer.

The last day on the mainland was spent in Ngorongoro Crater. It was a large crater that prevented animals from leaving so they do not migrate like the other animals in the area. This meant it was a very reliable place to spot wildlife. It felt like a ride at Disney. There was a set track everyone followed and hundreds of jeeps. It was a lot drier than the other parks we’d visited. The animals were very complacent and even the skittish zebra did not walk away when the jeep passed. We saw flamingos, a rhino, a few lions and lots of zebras.

Our safari was over. Now it was time to head to the airport and fly to Stonetown, Zanzibar to round out our visit to East Africa.

Zanzibar is a large island right off east Africa. It is in the Indian Ocean and has been an important port for centuries. Arabs came to colonize and the Indians to trade. Slaves, spices and ivory were the major exports. The mix of Arab and Indian influences is incredible and unique. We toured around Stonetown, visited a spice plantation, then arrived in the north to enjoy the beautiful beaches for a few days. Stunning white sand and turquoise waters greeted us. Intrepid put us up in a nice resort and so we all just relaxed after 10 days camping.

This was another amazing tour with Intrepid. I learned about such a variety of topics. I love broadening my knowledge… from environmental challenges to women’s health to traditional tribal practices to wildlife biology and conservation and even to the unique mixing of Arabic and Indian culture in Zanzibar … it all flowed so well together while still  being fun.

The group worked collaboratively to set up tents, wash dishes and support each other. Our 3 crew members ensured the trip ran smoothly and were quick to offer a smile. Thank you! 

This East Africa trip was everything I had hoped for and more. I am already looking forward to what I can experience and learn from my next Intrepid trip. Special thanks to Jet, Melissa, Millie, Bia, Tess and Ebony for sharing some photos!