October 20 – 31, 2023. Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela.

I took five days off from hiking to allow my body to recover from the first half of the Camino. This was unplanned and set me behind schedule, especially since I had a tour planned in Morocco for early November. While I probably could have pushed harder, I decided to take a train to make the rest of the journey easier. I’m much happier walking 15 to 25 kilometers daily, rather than 25 to 35 kilometers.

I took the train from Burgos to León, and then on to Ponferrada. As I watched the countryside and small Spanish towns pass by, I felt a sense of sadness, imagining all the places I could have explored but wouldn’t get to see.

The journey changed for me after Ponferrada. I met a wonderful group of pilgrims, and we kept staying at the same hostels. It was so nice to build a community through shared meals and long walks.

The rain continued every day, and I was particularly grateful for my rain gear, dry bag, and waterproof shoes. Somehow, I managed to avoid any blisters after restarting the Camino.

After Samos, I reached Sarria, where the swarm of pilgrims arrived. I had read that many people walk only the last 100 kilometers, which makes the trail seem louder and busier. However, I don’t think this is a bad thing. Everyone experiences the Camino in their own way, and there is no single correct approach.

To avoid the crowds during the last 100 kilometers, I planned to skip the main stops. This strategy worked exceptionally well; I entered towns at different times than the masses and chose to stay in small villages instead.

As I entered the outskirts of Santiago, I noticed a rainbow arching above the path. The rain mostly held off. I had spent most of the day hiking with an American man who was accompanied by all six of his brothers. They were on this journey to celebrate the eldest brother’s 70th birthday.

Arriving in Santiago was an emotional experience. After a month of walking, I found myself in a bustling city filled with hundreds of other pilgrims, all arriving from different directions. It was exciting to see fellow travelers from various parts of my journey throughout the city. People would wave and catch up for a few minutes in the streets. The basic routine of the Camino had come to an end.

Fortunately, the day after my arrival was All Saints’ Day, which meant there would be a special mass at the Cathedral with the Botafumeiro, a large incense holder that swings up through the naves. This was a magical experience. The Cathedral was packed, with standing room only. The ceremony involved men in red robes and chanting music, creating a mystical and moving atmosphere. It was the perfect finale to my pilgrimage. No photos were allowed.

While the mass at the Cathedral marked the official end of my Camino, I chose to continue on to the coast for a few nights in Finisterre. I wanted some time to relax and reflect on my journey. Although some people hike, I took the bus (the motion sickness I experienced would probably convince me to walk in the future). Finisterre was exactly what I needed. I rented a small attic apartment with ocean views, where I could watch storms give way to sunshine.

During my stay, I went on day hikes, including a trek to El Faro de Fisterra, which is another endpoint of the Camino. I was fortunate enough to spot a pod of dolphins crossing the bay and watched them until they disappeared from sight. I kept running into old walking partners from earlier in my journey, and the magic of the Camino continued to unfold.

I’m incredibly grateful for all the people who made my Camino experience special, especially the Canadian couple who adopted me and checked on me every night. Despite the struggles and exhaustion, I look back on the experience very fondly and hope to walk another route in the future. Until then—Buen Camino!