Dec 6-9, 2022

Elizabeth, you visited Seoul last time and did not love it. Why return? I wanted to give South Korea another chance. So many people love Korean food and culture that I knew I must have missed something. Plus, a goal of this trip was to maximize airline points. It cost the same amount to fly from Japan to the USA as it did to fly from South Korea to Japan to the USA.

I decided to plan this visit completely around my likes. Spa days, dress up, food tasting, museums, and tea houses. Plus I would stay in the historical center instead of the modern area I stayed in previously.

Amazingly, I had a great time doing things I enjoy. Who would have known? 🙂 I arrived early in the morning to snow and cold temperatures. Perfect day for a Korean bathhouse! I tried to visit the one I went to previously which I’d loved but it had shut down during COVID. Lots of them had closed due to the multiple lockdowns. I was tired and couldn’t check into my guesthouse yet. I found a warm coffee shop, connected to the Wi-Fi and tried to come up with plan B. Plan B was a small and very local bathhouse. I was the only tourist. Thankfully, the “aunties” took my hand and pulled me to where I needed to go. I got scrubbed and massaged, soaked in different pools, and then lounged in multiple unique saunas. Perfect way to recover after an overnight flight and to enjoy a snowy day.

I checked into my guesthouse after the sauna. The neighborhood was charming and very historic. I went to a traditional Korean restaurant for dinner. Sadly, I still don’t like most Korean food. I keep trying but the flavors just don’t work for me. Still, I gave it a good shot and ate dumplings, cold pickled radish soup, and lots of other pickled sides. I find it so interesting that Korean chopsticks are metal instead of wood or plastic. Way harder for me to eat with. I felt like a chopstick novice!

The next day I got to dress up like a princess and visit the grand palace. I’m so glad I did this. I felt gorgeous and like I fit in. One stranger gave me his hand warmers after complimenting my dress and thanking me for exploring Korean culture.

In the evening I left the historic center and went to the university district. Here I did a Sogu tasting. Similar to sake, it is a rice alcohol. I’d never tried it, but I had a lovely time. The host guided us through multiple varieties and paired it with madeleines made from byproducts of the alcohol.

The last day I visited the war museum and the Korean history museum. I barely remember learning about the Korean War in school, so the war museum was fascinating. It was great to see a more positive American light vs the war in Vietnam. It’s amazing how far and how quickly Seoul has advanced since the war ended.

Thank you, Seoul, for welcoming me back. I learned a lot and really appreciate that I had the chance to visit again. Now I need to explore the rest of the country!