November 30-December 5, 2022. How had time passed so quickly? I blinked and now had only 3 weeks before my flight back to the USA. I am not ready to return to normal life. Travel has a way of making me live in the moment and savor every day.

With only 3 weeks left, I made some sacrifices. I would have loved to slowly travel north in Vietnam, but I also wanted to reach Japan before my trip was up. Instead of the train, I took flights. And instead of multiple stops, I picked only Hoi An and Hanoi: Hoi An because it’s a UNESCO heritage site and full of beautiful buildings, and Hanoi because it is one of my favorite cities in the world.

Hoi An was lovely. It’s a small and charming touristic town, near the coast midway between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. There were so many Westerners. It was shocking to see so much blond hair.

Hoi An has Japanese, French and Chinese influences due to past conquests. I enjoyed exploring the small streets and temples. A river and a few canals cut through the town. The boats on the river have eyes painted on the front. I was told this way if a sea monster looks up, it will see the eyes and assume the boat is a large predator, and then won’t attack.

I tried the local delicacy, Cau Lao, which was delicious. The noodles were thick and chewy and coated in a very flavorful sauce. Fried dough croutons, sliced pork, lime, and lots of leafy greens complement the dish. I paired it with a fresh lime soda, delicious! Why is Vietnamese food so good?

Hoi An is know for tailoring services. Many tourists get suits or formal dresses made. I had considered ordering a dress but I just was not in the mood. Instead, I bought a few Christmas cards and addressed them while drinking a coconut and mung bean shake. As I returned to my hotel ($20/night for a modern, clean hotel room with free breakfast!), I spotted a gorgeous silk robe. Did I need it? No. I bought one the last time I was in Vietnam which is still in good condition. But I loved the pattern and $15 for the robe and nightgown set was so much cheaper than it would be back home.

Two nights in Hoi An was plenty of time to get a feel for the town. I was excited to catch the shared shuttle bus to the Da Nang airport and fly north to Hanoi.

I flew Vietjet all over Vietnam and Thailand. I am impressed with the quality of service in regards to the price. It’s a low cost airline but it doesn’t feel like Spirit or RyanAir. My tickets were $33.90 for a window seat in the front, checked bag, and carry-on. Great price and only 1.5 hrs but much higher carbon emissions than taking the train.

It felt great to be back in Hanoi. I booked an Airbnb to let myself embrace the domestic side for a little bit. I wanted to make my own breakfast, do my own laundry, and organize my life. Hanoi is a hard city to explain. It mixes old and new. It’s chaotic yet orderly, charming yet ugly.

Highlights were attending a food tour with two men from Singapore, visiting the silk village and seeing the factories, and learning about history at the Hoa Lo prison.

The first day in Hanoi I went on a food tour. Street food is extremely popular but it can be a little overwhelming if you don’t know which shops are worth visiting. The tour led me and two other guests around the old quarter. We tried so much food. My favorites were the egg coffee and different rice paper rolls.

Since the holidays were coming up, I bought gifts and souvenirs while in Hanoi. Silk is famous so I visited the village Van Phuc to see artisan workshops and purchase a few pieces. The loom machines were so loud. Little shops were attached to each factory. It was a unique experience and well worth the 40 minute motorbike taxi ride.

My final day in Hanoi I visited Hoa Lo prison. Also known as Maison Centrale or Hanoi Hilton. It was first built to hold political prisoners during the French rule. American prisoners of war were kept there during the Vietnam War (or American War, if you live in Vietnam). It was fascinating. I had visited the prison where Nelson Mandela was held in South Africa and was imagining something similar. However, this felt worse. It was opened in 1896 by the French to suppress the Vietnamese fighting the colonists for independence. It was so brutal and overcrowded. The prisoners were fettered by the ankles most of the time. Some of the cells had slanted cement floors where their legs would be higher than their head. This forced the prisoners to use their arms to elevate their head to keep blood flow even. These prisoners got terrible edema and suffered great illnesses. It was such a cruel place. The children of female prisoners would stay with their mothers. However, they didn’t get any extra supplies for the children. No clothes or milk. Many died while incarcerated. Executions occurred by guillotine as an intimidation tactic. Why were colonial powers so cruel?

American POWs were held there between 1964-1973. According to the museum, the prisoners were treated well. The Vietnamese spent twice as much to provide for the American soldiers as it did for its own soldiers. They were provided medical care, time for exercise and went on tourist outings. However, other sources said the treatment was horrific and so brutal it breached the Geneva Convention. Senator John McCain was one of the prisoners.

While in Hanoi, I went to mass in the lovely St Joseph Cathedral. I also ate so much food. Banh mi 25, a well-known restaurant, is touristy but so delicious. They get a bit creative with the sandwiches, so I got mushroom, avocado and egg. An avocado smoothie might sound weird, but it has such a nice creamy mild flavor.

Before heading to the airport, I indulged in once last bowl of pho. Apparently, Barack Obama visited this shop when he was in Hanoi as president. They only serve beef pho and you must watch for motorbikes as you eat but it’s tasty and fresh.

4 days in Hanoi passed quickly and enjoyably. I’m not sure what it is about the city but I just love it. Next visit I’ll explore the Hai Giang loop in the far north. Vietnam is another country where I definitely plan to return to someday. Thank you to everyone I met who ensured I had a great time and didn’t give me a hard time for being American.